Masai Mara National Reserve

 

Masai Mara Basics

  • Features: It is one of the most famous wilderness area in wildlife, it has a high concentration of wildlife and stunning wide open plains dotted with acacia trees. t also hosts the Great Migration, which secured it as one of the Seven Natural Wonders of Africa

  • Wildlife: Predators include lions, leopards, cheetahs, hyenas, caracals, servals. It has many of the bigger mammals, elephant, giraffe, buffalo, hippo, waterbuck, kudu, zebra, and crocodiles. Over 470 bird species are present in the park.

  • Park Fees: Adult per day- $80

  • Size: 1,510 km2

  • Distance: From Nairobi- 280km

  • Transport: 4x4 would be advised, as the road surfaces are uneven with bumpy roads and river beds. If you don’t want to self drive there are also airstrips inside the park and game drives.

  • Accommodation: There are lodges inside the park, ranging from low budget to luxurious lodges. I stayed at the Mara Bush Camp

  • Additional info: It is a busy park, with a lot of options of guides for game drives, advisable to find a good guide. A good guide means a lot of fantastic wildlife sightings! Don’t forget about your travel visa, give plenty of time so you are not rushing last minute like me!

The Adventure

My next adventure begins in the famous Masai Mara, a place I have dreamed about going to as long as I can remember. Growing up watching Big Cat Diaries, I had a longing to see the big cats I had felt such a connection with. If you want to see big cats, this is the place to be and my week in the Mara did not disappoint. Each day full of incredible sightings and memories I will cherish forever.


Day 1

On this trip I was part of a group, I was joining the incredible photographer Marina Cano on one her workshops. She is one of my favourite wildlife photographers so I knew I would be in for a week of incredible sightings. On morning 1 we headed to the airport to get ready for our second flight. It was a short bumpy flight from Nairobi Wilson Airport to the Masai Mara, around 45 minutes in a small propeller plane. The flight had some beautiful views travelling over the wide open plains. I began to see herds of buffalo and giraffe as we prepared for landing. My excitement was growing, I am here! I am in the Masai Mara. On arrival my group and I got picked up by a Masai guide Sam. We headed to our lodge, Mara Bush Camp to get settled in and get ready for an evening game drive. The lodge was beautiful, rustic and peaceful, surrounded by trees and plants, hippos laying along the riverbank their grunting adding to the ambiance.

Some lunch and a quick bit of of unpacking and preparing my camera gear and I was ready to go. I was ready to see whatever the Mara had to offer. (Of course praying to see cheetahs) We set off with our guide Sam, a handsome Masai man, kitted out in the beautiful traditional Masai attire. As we drove onto the wide open plains of the Masai Mara I was overwhelmed with its beauty, the flat landscape dotted with trees in the distance and dark threatening clouds overhead, adding to the drama. Our first sighting came very quickly, an ostrich silhouette in the distance, its shape walking over the flat land. We watched for a few moments but our mission was to find a pride of lions so we continued on…

We scanned our surroundings as we drove in our Land Cruiser and it wasn’t long before we found the pride of lions. I had never seen a pride that huge, over 20 lions strong. Resting near some bushes, their bodies sprawled closely together making it difficult to count the numbers at first. What a sight, some members stuck their heads up, disturbed from their sleep to have a look at us. Rolling back over after their curiosity faded and heading back to sleep. It was evening so we knew it wouldn’t be long before they were on the move, so we waited and watched. After an hour or so some of the female lions stood up, trying to wake up the other members, it was time to move.

The pride eventually set off and we followed. The pride walking as a unit, setting off in a line on a mission. Were they off for a hunt or just an evening stroll I wondered as they walked. After 20 minutes of walking they stopped in a spot together, there was no game around so what were they doing? After a minute I saw why. By the tree line in the distance two big male lions appeared, their presence was huge, radiating from them as they grew closer. The dominant males of the pride had arrived to join the rest of the pride. It was a beautiful scene as they greeted one another, their close bond evident by the way they interacted. It was an intimate moment, as a spectator getting to watch a family of lions reunite.

Day 2

After spending an evening with 20+ lions I could leave the Mara a happy woman but this was just the beginning. We set off before sunrise to see what we can find, every day out in the field is different. Some days lucky some not. It was raining as we drove in the early morning. It wasn’t long before we found a few more lions, a mother and an older cub. They were playing as the rain came down on them, in their own little happy bubble. We watched and photographed for a while, watching them play innocently. The rain stopped and the dark clouds parted to reveal warm rays on the open plains. We drove till we found a herd of elephants walking towards us, the light rays overhead painting a heavenly scene. Walking in a line with babies following close to their mothers. Their footsteps so quiet for their size. It was a beautiful moment and one of my favourite photos from the trip.




Our morning was action packed with incredible sightings, a clan of hyenas, a leopard sighting, more lions and yes more lions. We came across two male lions sitting in a little woodland, finding a bit of quiet time and a place for a nap. It was beautiful to watch one of them, he looked so serene, a mighty and strong lion with a gentle quality. The lush green bushes surrounding him, contrasting against his warm, thick mane. He looked like a king.

As evening approached the skies grew dark and thundery, filled with beautiful cloudscape and dreamy light. We spend the evening photographing giraffes, getting creative with the silhouettes over the horizon. When all the elements come together it is a magical moment. Nature can be breathtaking and it is not always the moments of action and drama, sometimes it is the slower quieter scenes. What do you notice when you are out in nature? The closer details or the wider picture, what gets your attention? We all have our own way of seeing the world, our unique eye, some see beauty where others don’t.

Day 3

I can see why the Masai Mara is such a popular destination, from the stunning landscape to the abundant wildlife, I had only spent two days there and already had seen so much. Day 3 was no exception. The day started off with a sighting of a female lion on the move, either searching for some of her pride or a hunt more than likely. We spent some time with her until we spotted a herd of elephants nearby. We watched the herd grazing on the lush grass, content with season of plenty. The rain bringing food and nutrition to the land. We watched the babies interact with their families, their innocent little walk as they swayed their trunks. Baby elephant are so full of life and emotion, it does not feel too far off watching a child sometimes, you see similarities the more you watch.

We returned to the female lion from earlier who now sitting on a mound, looking like a queen. She looked dramatic with the dark clouds looming over her, so we had to stop for a while to take some photos. It was getting hot and towards the middle of the day when things get quiet as they retreat from the baking sun to find shelter. Luckily the clouds making the sun look and feel less harsh. Making the light look a bit softer and defused.

As evening approached after spending the full day in the bush, energy starting to dip. Our guide got a tip off about a mother lion and her cubs so we went off on the search. It wasn’t long until we found them with the amazing senses of the Masai guides. We parked at a distance and waited for her to pass us from down below in the riverbed. We waited for a while, knowing she would more than likely move soon. What we saw next we didn’t dream of seeing. Behind the bushing the mother appeared and she was carrying a little baby cub in her mouth. I held by breath, it was a perfect moment. She climbed down the banks and jumped over the stream still carrying the baby. Her reflection in the water as she crossed carefully. Wow what a moment to see, how lucky to see a mother carry her baby. A few moments later she returned and came back to move another baby, taking the same route. Hopping over the stream, baby in mouth. I felt I stopped breathing again out of excitement, moments like that are hard to come by. The big cat gods have been kind to me….


Day 4

Heading out before sunrise was now becoming a ritual, getting used to the early morning, fuelled by coffee. While you have a short time in such a special places, you need to make the best of the incredible sunrises and sunsets, even if you are tired. Our morning started out with some big cat rivalry and drama. We saw other vehicles stopped in the distance and went to investigate. We stopped near them and saw a big male lion walking. It was a cold and foggy morning, setting the atmosphere perfectly. He stopped and let out a bellowing roar. His breath visible as it hit the cold air. He continued to roar several times. A warning to any intruders not to mess with him. This is his territory and he is on top. He was staring into the distance, he sensed something or someone. After a few moments we saw what he was watching……there were three male intruders coming for a takeover. The tension in the air was intense, he let out more deep warning calls hoping to deter the newcomers. They kept getting closer, confidence in numbers, 3 to 1, the odds in their favour. As they got closer and closer, he began to retreat, not running away but walking slowly. Stopping to have a look at them now and then.

It felt like watching an episode of Game of Thrones, there was a lot of tension in the air and a wrong move could result in death. As the distance grew bigger between the big male and the three newcomers he stopped and waited to see what their move was. Calling their bluff, the three males stopped and watched him. They lay down for a while, possibly waiting for an opportunity later. We waited with them for a while but they seemed content with relaxing and grooming for now. Fight averted!


Day 5

Another day packed with sightings, our morning began with very foggy conditions (I love me some fog) creating a moody atmosphere, different from the typical sunrise. The colour tones were different and texture of the land, a white blanket of fog enveloping the land and the creature roaming. We spent some time with a herd of buffalo who looked mighty surrounded by fog. We came across some baby hyenas, a mother lion and her cubs nursing and soon after that a lion feasting on a kill. It was a busy morning.

Our evening was spent with a beautiful female leopard, she lay on top of a tree watching the world go by. Scanning now and then for any threats or opportunities for a kill. Surrounded by the incredible open plains, we anticipated her next move, hoping to catch her on her descent down the tree. To catch a moment like this would require a bit of waiting and quick reflexes. Having your camera ready to catch the shot. We waited and waited , the clock ticking and it was almost time to head back for the evening. Almost as if she could hear my inner hopes, she suddenly did a big stretch and pranced down elegantly down the tree. Success, and just on time. I had dreamed of a shot like this for a while.


Day 6

Our final day in the Masai Mara, I couldn't believe how quick the time had gone by. Yet it felt like I was settling into the rhythm of life here. Saw so many incredible moments from baby lions, to hunts, families of elephants, leopards up trees, cheetahs hunting and many other little moments of wonder and awe. On our final morning the sky was orange with a sense of hope in the air. The darkness slowly turning into golden light. We found a spot for sunrise and found a group of giraffes to photograph. As they walked across the horizon, their tall elegant bodies looking small under the big orange sky that enveloped them. The sky changing colour as the minutes passed, it was nice to slow down and observe these changes.

I felt so much gratitude for my time here as I watched the sunrise behind the giraffes. How lucky am I to be here in this moment. I had watched so many documentaries growing up and here I am. How the beauty of nature can pull you in and make you feel so much. I feel I can never do it justice through my images but I try!

We stopped for a breakfast in the bush and went for a final drive around the Masai Mara, bumping into more lions, we watched an older male for some time. We were lucky enough to find a serval as well. How easily they can disappear into the long grass, it was hard to keep up. Trying to photograph the serval was not easy with their quick movements and their ability to disappear. They truly are beautiful little cats with a curious presence .

As my time in the Mara drew to a close, I packed up my gear and got ready to hard back to another bumpy flight over the plains. I always feel a hint of sadness leaving a place I had fallen in love with. As we took off on our flight back to the capital, I shed a few tears, I have cried too many times on flights, always sad to be leaving. But that is apart of the journey and what makes it special. You use time differently when you travel, you treasure it. It is not another monotonous week with nothing much happening. Its a week full of memories that last for a lifetime.

Masai Mara, you were everything I could have wished for and more. Thank you and i’ll be back.







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Lower Zambezi National Park