Liuwa Plains National Park
Liuwa Plain National Park Basics
Features: Liuwa Plain has the second largest Wildebeest migration in Africa, numbering around 30,000. Beautiful flat open plains with scattered woodlands. Jaw dropping sunrises and sunsets.
Wildlife: Predators include lions, cheetahs, African Wild Dogs, spotted hyenas a variety of herbivores include blue wildebeest, zebra, red lechwe, tsessebe, eland and buffalo. Over 350 bird species are present in the park including grey crowned crane, pelicans, a variety of storks and eagles.
Park Fees: Adult per day- $40
Size: 3660 km²
Distance: From Lusaka- 750km
Transport: You need a 4x4 to drive this park, as the road surfaces are uneven with some deep sandy roads. If you don’t want to self drive there are also airstrips inside the park.
Accommodation: There are 5 campsites throughout the park, we stayed in the middle of the park in Katoyana. If you don’t want to camp there is one lodge, Time+Tide King Lewanika
Additional info: If you are camping, stock up in Mongu as that will be your last place to stock up with supplies. Also make sure to fill up your car tank and get spare fuel. You will need to drive onto a pontoon that runs from Kalabo which should cost around $3. Be careful of the deep sand roads, it is easy to get stuck!
The Adventure
Our second national park on our adventure in Zambia, Liuwa Plain National Park. One of the most remote national parks in Africa, it is not for the faint hearted. Although one of the most peaceful places I have ever visited, the journey there was not easy, especially as we were self driving. It was one of the most memorable weeks of my life, full of hyenas, incredible sunsets, amazing birdlife and getting a bit stuck. The reason we picked this lesser known park as part of our trip was because it is one of the few places to spot cheetahs in Zambia with a population of around 20 individuals. But I will get to that part later.I will give a brief history of the remote Liuwa Plain National Park before I continue on my adventure. Liuwa Plain was established as a national park in 1972. Originally the remote plains acted as hunting grounds for the King Lubosi Lewanika of the Lozi people between 1878 and 1916. King Lewanika designated Liuwa Plain as a protected area in the early 1880s. Liuwa Plain National park is made up of vast grassy plains and scattered woodlands. It is home to a variety of mammals including huge herds of blue wildebeest, hosting the second largest wildebeest migration in Africa. Predators include the cheetah, lion, African Wild Dog, leopard, and spotted hyena.
It was a long drive on the bumpy roads from the remote Busanga Plains in Kafue where we started our journey to Liuwa. I was full of excitement though, hearing great things about Liuwa from people we had met in Kafue. A day and half drive at the least with an overnight stop in Mongu. On the drive we passed lots of little villages, vibrant with life and friendly people waving at us. We definitely got a lot of looks as we drove, we stood out a mile away. Two pale Irish people with tattoos , I don’t imagine that is a common sight in those parts. Our overnight stop in Mongu gave us a chance to stock up on supplies for the week and get a good night sleep in a bed before being back in the tent.
Fully rested and stocked up, we set off early from Mongu. The drive was peaceful and scenic, passing rivers and little villages on the way. We reached Kalabo where took a pontoon operated by the local council to take our vehicle across Luanginga River. Only a short trip across the river and our adventure had begun. We drove around 12km before we reached the park headquarters to go through our paperwork and permits. All that done our next mission was to reach our campsite Katoyana in the centre of the park. A journey we did not expect to take too long……..
As we drove through the park, we struggled to get used to the deep sandy roads. Within half an hour of leaving the headquarters, we got stuck. That was one of my fears I had when travelling around remote areas in National Parks. A fear that was now coming through. It was midday, the sun beating down high in the sky, we had plenty of time before it got dark so no need to panic. We would just have to dig ourselves free. We both got out and got to work, using a shovel we had for situations like this. We dug and dug, tried to get free, making a ramp to drive out on, no good. The more we tried the more we got stuck.
The day was progressing and there was no sign of anyone or any cars passing in the distance. We tried freeing the car over and over again. Digging in the deep sand, now both covered in dirt and sweat, feeling a bit more anxious . We were too stuck to get ourselves out. There was no way of walking to the camp as there are lions and hyenas and other dangers lurking all around. We would have to sit it out and wait for help. We took turns getting out and going on the roof to scan with our binoculars for any sign of vehicles in the distance. We kept trying with our phones to get signal but no luck. The situation getting a bit more grim as the hours passed.
We made some noodles in the back of our trucks for an energy boost. Night was soon approaching and I was not looking forward to spending a night in the car in the middle of a National Park. We discussed our options, maybe the sand might harden when night came and it got colder. As the sun set and darkness crept in, the atmosphere growing more menacing . You know that feeling when you are being watched, that eyes are on you….I got that feeling. I rolled down my window and scanned around the car with my flashlight. I scanned around the bushes and that is when I saw them. Multiple glowing eyes staring right at me. It was a clan of hyenas and they were approaching closer, inquisitive and daring. My heart started beating faster as I saw the glowing eyes approaching closer to my side of the car.
I started to beep the horn to scare them away, hoping the noise would startle them. It worked and they all scattered into the bush. What else might be lurking out there. I didn't want to sleep out here, the park was a very different place at night….
We agreed that we would try the roof one more time to get phone signal, I stood guard outside scanning with my torch to make sure the coast was clear. Stephen got up on the roof and tried to get phone signal. We were in luck! Just enough signal to make a call. I had an emergency number for the park headquarters and luckily somebody answered. We gave our location coordinates and they said they would send someone out to us. Relieved we both sat in the car and waited for help to come. How lucky to have gotten phone signal somewhere so remote. Someone up there is looking out for us I thought.
We waited over an hour before help arrived and two local men helped us get the car out. It took a while, with all of us digging. They attached their vehicle to ours and managed to tow us out. Thank god, we were free. We thanked the two men for getting us out of the situation and payed our fee for their troubles. We weren't out of the woods yet though. We still had an hour and a half drive before we would get to our campsite. Not an easy task in the dark.
Our drive around Liuwa Plains at night (which is not legal, unless something unfortunate like getting stuck happens) was very uneasy. The unfamiliar park at night, seeming unwelcoming and unnerving . We got lost a few times, taking a wrong turn, the map not so easy to follow in the dark. Passing clans of hyenas on our way, after some time we finally reached our campsite Katoyana.
We set up our tent for the night, both exhausted by this point, it was passed midnight. We decided to have a sleep in the following day to rest up after the ordeal. What a way to start our adventure in Liuwa Plains, just the beginning and already exhausted , we passed out as soon as our heads hit the pillow.
Day 1
We awoke late the next morning, still groggy after the events of the night before but excited to go off and explore the new landscape. We drove out of our campsite onto the open plains, a sense of awe and amazement came over me. The daylight made it feel very welcoming and peaceful. Surrounded by a surreal flat open plains with an abundance of wildlife. We spent some time watching the incredible birdlife, coming across some flocks of pelican, storks, crowned cranes and a variety of eagles. It felt like another world. Separate from society in its own little bubble of life. Breathtaking. The soft pastel tones of grass, flowers and sky, it looked like a peaceful painting. To me nature is art and this scene was a painting that captivated me.
Our first day passed in a blur, trying to take in the new scenes of wildlife and landscapes. Stopping to photograph everything and enjoying the slow pace of the park. I could not get over how quiet this park was, no other sounds except the sounds of wildlife. No sign of any other people to be found. I was in heaven. Looks like we have the park to ourselves I thought. I was right, I found out later that we were the only two travellers in the park for the week.
The next few days our mission was to hopefully find the cheetahs of Liuwa Plains. This is no easy feat, with a small population in a large unknown area. I had got some information on good locations for cheetahs in the park from the ZCP ( Zambian Carnivore Program ) They are a conservation group dedicated to conserving large carnivore species in Zambia. They have some of the cheetahs collarded and they gave us some information on where to find them.
On our search we came across our first signs of people, local villagers from the nearby area off to go fishing. Walking across the open plains in groups, it was a strange sight in the middle of a National Park.
Day 2
We arose early on day 2, an hour before sunrise, enough time to put away the tent and neck back some porridge . We set off onto the open plains again, now knowing our way around. Driving as the sun came up so dramatically over the flat landscape. I had never seen a sunrise like this, looking so close and so bright. We met small herds of wildebeest , zebra, oribi, all alert to our presence. They gazed back at our curiosity as we stopped to watch them. We drove to the areas where there had been cheetah sightings, driving slowly, scanning through my telephoto lens. Cheetahs were not easy to spot in the tall grass. Blending in perfectly to the colours of the landscape. We spent endless hours searching, till the sun came down and it was time to return to camp and cook some dinner.
We made a fire, and set up some chairs by the fire, where we eat our homemade dinner. The stars so bright above our heads, no light pollution to dampen their glowing light. The sounds of nature buzzing in a gentle rhythm around us. I had never felt this level of peace before, spending the last number of years living in a city. I appreciated the peacefulness every night I sat by the fire and just felt the soft vibrations of nature around me.
Day 3-4
The next couple of days passed quickly on the search for cheetahs. Coming across mainly game and hyenas, no sign of any big cats yet. Spending sunrise to sunset in the hopes of meeting a cheetah. Covering huge ground driving on the sandy roads. Not having much luck, but still enjoying the magic of the park. Watching the spectacular sunrises and sunsets, and trying to keep track of all the birdlife we came across .
Day 5
The previous night we had heard the sounds of a hunt near our campsite, it was dark but we heard the screeches of pain from what we thought to be a wildebeest . Followed by the calls of hyenas and a lion defending their kill. It sounded very close to us as we sat by the fire. The brutal calls of death, ringing out in the darkness, it was eerie. But this is nature and survival of the fittest. The next morning we went to investigate the scene, eager so see if the lion was still around. Just outside our campsite we were met with a hyena devouring the last pieces of the wildebeest. There must have been a feast last night. Not much remained. No sign of the lion either.
Not much action after that, although again a long day of searching. I was starting to feel a bit worried I wouldn’t end up finding any cheetahs. Time was running out very quickly, and I had really wanted to get a photograph of a cheetah before I left Zambia.
Day 6
We set off early as usual, searching new areas in the hope of some big cat action . As we drove through a small woodland, unexpectedly we were met with a beautiful lioness walking along the sandy track. She looked magnificent with the golden morning light hitting her, with a strong and powerful physique. We only spent a few moments before she dashed off to an area with thick foliage, out of reach. We searched the nearby area in the hopes of seeing her again. Maybe she had gone off for a hunt.
A few hours later, not too far from where we had met the lioness, we found another lion. This was a young male and he was alone. It was hot outside and approaching midday, an unusual time to see a lion wandering around. Normally they would be laying under the shade by this time. He seemed lost and distressed, panting and walking around looking for something. His eyes were wide, and his movements unsure. I felt pity for him, I had heard from the ZCP that a young male had recently been kicked out of his pride, this must be him. He still seemed quite young, not old enough to have the hunting skills to survive.
He noticed us watching him and he approached us cautiously. I felt so bad for him, I just wanted to mind him and for him not be alone. Obviously I cannot do that, so I said a little private prayer that he would find his way and survive. We spent some time with him. He stayed around the area, every now and than looking out for something or someone. I hope as I write this that he is doing ok, as when he stared into my eyes he looked quite fragile and lost. A moment that I will not forget.
We spent the evening searching for cheetahs, our trip to Liuwa almost coming to an end. Still no sign of cheetahs, I was starting to lose hope. But I still felt grateful in my heart to have had those lion encounters earlier.
As our final evening drew to a close, we stopped and sat up on the roof to watch the sun go down. Taking in the final sunset and stopping to appreciate the beauty surrounding us. What a special place this is I thought. Not a single thought of the outside world had gone through my head while I was here. I was fully in this little world that was Liuwa Plains.
Day 7
Our final morning we spent on the search for cheetahs, holding onto that last bit of hope. We only had a few hours before we would have to leave the park. Onto our final destination, the Lower Zambezi National Park. Taking in the last moments in the park with unfortunately no sign of cheetahs. I felt disappointed but also incredibly grateful for the incredible week I had in Liuwa Plain. Mixed emotions and a bit sad to be leaving this magical place. If anyone is thinking of visiting, do so, it is incredible in so many ways, peaceful and immersive at the same time. I hope one day I find myself back on the open plains of Liuwa Plains.
The adventure continues…………
Additional Information and Website Links:
Liuwa Plains National Park Information : African Parks https://www.africanparks.org/the-parks/liuwa-plain
Great website for Information on how to get there, campsites, park fees etc.
Katoyana campsite information: https://tracks4africa.co.za/listings/item/w147728/katoyana-community-camp-liuwa-plain-np/
ZCP (Zambian Carnivore Program ) website: https://www.zambiacarnivores.org Information on the conservation programs they are involved in.